Be honest: every surf-affine person in the world with access to social media has probably seen the longest and maybe biggest wave ever surfed in Uluwatu. But who the hell was the dude that surfed her? We found the record man and found out that his name is Eloy Lorenzo and he comes from Brazil. It’s the Cinderalla story of surfing.
Why is Eloy so unknown?
We asked him for an interview and Eloy accepted with thanks, but first had to organize an interpreter because his English, let’s say, is relatively modest. But the down-to-earth Brazilian, who hardly anyone knew before this wave, is unbelievably down-to-earth and sparkles with enthusiasm. The interpreter, an acquaintance of Eloy, told us that Eloy had been charging the fattest waves in the world for years, including Mavericks, Jaws and Teahupoo to name a few, but above all he remained so unknown because he didn’t use any social media and wasn’t exactly a self-marketing machine.
Eloy, where exactly are you from?
From Salvador de Bahia Brazil. I grew up there between coast and country.
When did you start surfing the biggest waves in the world and what was the scariest wave you ever surfed?
I started to venture into really big swell at the age of 16. It was in June 1997 when a monster swell rolled towards Brazil, I surfed my homebreak Treceira Ponte, it was huge but also perfect and clean. On that day, my life was going to change forever. These Great Waves became an addiction.
Probably the strongest wave I have ever surfed in my life was Maui. I often sat alone outside, had no jet ski support, there were rocks everywhere and it was especially physically and mentally extremely demanding, at the end of the session I could hardly paddle anymore.
Why have we heard so little about you so far?
Well, I had my business in Brazil, me and my family didn’t travel much until the day I decided to go to Pehahi. I have always despised nepotism and mafia structures in the surf industry, so I have never sought sponsorship contracts or participated in championships, so I have always financed everything myself. Since I have been surfing many Bigwaves internationally, I have decided to share my passion with the public and to communicate my love of sport. I hope that I will soon get a sponsorship and can positively influence the sport I love so much.
How do you prepare for such big waves?
Well, I am actually a farmer, so I am very much in motion and keep myself fit. I am also a very tidy and enthusiastic free diver and practice relatively much yoga. I am a very spiritual person, I believe in the Holy Trinity and I am sure that God will protect me and give me the waves I need.
Did you expect so much media attention?
To be honest: Yes. I knew this was the biggest swell Indonesia had ever reached. I’ve been watching the wave for over a year. I was aware that I was doing something special.
When did you learn it was the longest wave ever surfed in Uluwatu?
I already suspected that my wave was really damn long. I dropped into the wave in Uluwatu Outside and surfed it to Padang Beach. When my friends who live there, like Big Wave surfer Jhonny Dee told me that it was the most impressive wave he has ever seen in Uluwatu, I knew I must have done something right. In the video study it turned out later that it was probably the longest wave ever surfed.
Where are you in ten years, Eloy?
I will sail around the world with my lady in a catamaran, go fishing, occasionally chill on my farm with my children and my horses.
If you haven’t seen Eloy’s masterpiece yet, you can do it here. Potential sponsors should simply sign up on Eloy’s new Instagram account